- #SIMPLE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 1980 SPORTSTER CHOPPER HOW TO#
- #SIMPLE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 1980 SPORTSTER CHOPPER FREE#
I'd disassemble the carb and soak it in carb cleaner. If you're using the original Keihen carb, you'll probably find that the slow speed jet or the idle port is plugged up. Once the leaks have been stopped, work on the carb. Spray soapy water on the intake and clamps to find the leaks. Rotate the engine until both intake valves are closed and apply about 5 PSI pressure to the intake. In the middle of this plate, there should be a hose nipple. To do this, you must make a plate that replaces the carb and bolts on to the intake. I've seen brand new intake clamps with new "rubber bands" leak. If not, you'll have to move the breaker plate to change the timing. You should see a "dot" in the middle of the hole. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine and shine the light in the hole. Now, to check the timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder and start the engine. I always use the needle bearing equipped units. The problem is that the pivot pin wears and replacing the weights does not replace these pins. I hope that you replaced the entire mechanical advance unit unstead of just the weights. Since you say you replaced the advance weights, this tells me that you removed the breaker plate. My guess woud be that you either have not got the timing set correctly or something to do with the intake/ carb. SOURCE: Can't get 1980 Harley Sportster to idle. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you. Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions".
#SIMPLE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 1980 SPORTSTER CHOPPER HOW TO#
To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.
This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory.
Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.Īll you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it.
#SIMPLE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 1980 SPORTSTER CHOPPER FREE#
One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.
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